Phewa is the second largest lake in Nepal, and Lakeside is the road that runs the length of its eastern shore — shopfronts, hired boats and kitchens, all of them facing the same water. Tal Barahi stands on the island in the middle of it, close enough to row out to before the light goes.
The water faces the Annapurnas. On a clear morning Machhapuchhre sits at the end of it, sharp above the far ridge; by evening the whole range has come back on the surface, and after that the town has — the lights of Lakeside laid end to end across the lake. That is the hour this side of the road was built for.
We are a few doors off that road. Two minutes down to the water if you want to walk it, or a table on the terrace and the same view from where you are sitting — lunch until late, every day of the week.